Best Travelers’ Guide to Four Schools of Tibetan Buddhism from Nyingma to Gelugpa
As a realm of spirituality on the roof of the world, Tibet draws global travelers to immerse themselves in mystical and rich Tibetan Buddhism. Currently, there are four main schools of Tibetan Buddhism in Tibet, i.e. Nyingmapa, Kagyupa, Sakyapa, and Gelugpa, each with distinctive religious practices and profound traditions to be explored.
In this article, we will walk you through the origin, key Tibetan Buddhist leaders, main monasteries, and uniqueness of these four schools of Tibetan Buddhism. So, you can better understand the culture and history of different Tibetan monasteries as you travel in Tibet.
Nyingma School (Red Hat): the Oldest School of Tibetan Buddhism in Tibet
Kagyu School (White Hat): Practise Mahamudra & Focus on Oral Teachings
For Travelers, the Best Way to Explore Tibetan Buddhist Schools Is with Our Local Experts
Nyingma School (Red Hat): the Oldest School of Tibetan Buddhism in Tibet
Founded by Indian master Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) in the 8th century, the Nyingma sect (or Nyingmapa) is the oldest school of Tibetan Buddhism, predating the other Tibetan Buddhist schools that emerged in the mid-11th century in Tibet. Its founder Guru Rinpoche is widely revered as the “ Second Buddha” by the disciples of the Nyingma sect.
Along with tantric practices, Nyingma emphasizes revealed teachings attributed to its central teachings, i.e. Dzogchen doctrines, also known as "Great Perfection" or ati-yoga (extraordinary yoga). It believes that deep inside, everyone has a pure and wise mind. This true mind is like the sun, always shining, even if clouds (like thoughts or worries) cover it sometimes.
Nyingma School prospers mostly in rural villages across Tibet and makes wide use of shamanistic practices and local divinities borrowed from the indigenous, pre-Buddhist Bon religion. Nyingma monks are not generally required to be celibate.
Nyingma school disciples wearing red hat in Tibetan monastery.
Main Monasteries of Nyingma School
Samye Monastery (Shannan): Samye Monastery is the first Tibetan monastery in Tibet, located in Shannan Prefecture, known as the cradle of Tibetan civilization. It was built by Śāntarakṣita and Guru Rinpoche in the late 8th century with unique mandala design. The Ütse main hall, which symbolizes the center of the universe, will be the focus of your visit.
Unique mandala layout of Nyingma Samye Monastery in Shannan Prefecture.
Mindroling Monastery (Shannan): Founded by Terdak Lingpa in the mid-17th century, Mindroling Monastery is one of the “Six Great Monasteries” of the Nyingma school in Shannan, Tibet. Minrolling prioritizes the study of Buddhist scriptures, astronomy, the Tibetan lunar calendar, calligraphy, rhetoric, and Traditional Tibetan medicine.
Dorje Drak Monastery (Shannan): Built in the late 16th century, Dorje Drak is another important Nyingma monastery in Shannan Prefecture. The monastery is famous for the naturally formed footprint of Guru Rinpoche and the crossed vajra on the rock behind the monastery.
Kagyu School (White Hat): Practise Mahamudra & Focus on Oral Teachings
In the 11th century, Buddhism started growing strong again, and many Tibetans felt inspired to go to India to learn more. When they came back, they brought fresh ideas that revitalized Tibetan Buddhism and led to a new school of Tibetan Buddhism—Kagyu or Kagyupa. Kagyu sect was established by Marpa (1012–93) the translator of Indian Tantra and his disciple Milarepa (1040–1123). “Ka” means words or teachings of Buddha while “Gyu” suggests continuation.
So, Kagyu school focuses on passing down wisdom and teachings to their students through face-to-face oral instruction, just like how a parent might teach their children. This way, the teachings stay pure and true, just as they were in the beginning.
Disciples of the Kagyu school wear white monastic robes when practicing tantra or participating in Dharma assemblies, a religious practice learned from India. This is why the Kagyu school is often referred to as the “White Hat” school.
Kagyupa has complex subsects and the most prominent one is Karma Kagyu (Black Hat). The mysterious living Buddha reincarnation tradition actually originates in Tsurphu Monastery which belongs to Karma Kagyu.
Tsurphu Monastery, famous Karma Kagyu school around Lhasa.
The difference between Nyingma and Kagyu is that historically, Nyingma School predates Kaygyu by around 300 years. In terms of Buddhist teachings, the Nyingma focuses on the practice of Dzogchen, which means recognizing the natural, pure state of the mind. Whereas Kagyu learns from the new tantra "Mahamudra" and emphasizes direct oral teaching from the master to students. Lastly, Nyingma belongs to Red Hat while Kagyu can be White, or Black Hat for its diverse subsects.
Main Monasteries of Kagyu School
Tsurphu Monastery (Lhasa suburbs): Widely known as the origin of the living Buddha reincarnation tradition, Tsurphu Monastery is an off-the-beaten monastery around 70km west of Lhasa City. You can explore this Karma Kagyu on the way back from visiting Namtso Lake. During the Saga Dawa festival, you can enjoy traditional cham dancing as well.
Drigung Til Monastery (Lhasa suburbs): Located 130km away to the northeast of Lhasa city, Drigung Til Monastery will impress you with its treacherous courtyard hanging on the cliff overlooking the Zhorong-chu Valley. You can even take a glimpse of the holy sky burial ceremony here as well.
Sakya School (Red, Black, and White Hat): Tibetan Buddhist Sect with Iconic “Grey Earth” Color in Shigatse
From the 11th century onward, Tibetan monasteries turned into a hub for the textual study and translation of Indian Buddhist scriptures. Khon Konchok Gyelpo, a scholar from a noble family and originally a disciple of Nyingmapa, founded the Sakya School at Sakya Monastery on the north bank of Zhongqu Vally in Shigatse in 1073.
Literally, “Sakya” means “Grey Earth” and Sakya School was named after the grey and white color of the soil in this region. Nowadays, as you visit Sakya Monastery, you can instantly tell this is Sakya School from the red, black, and white colors painted on the grey wall. Even the monastic hat of Sakya School bears these distinctive three colors. That’s why Sakya School is often referred to as “Colorful Hat”.
Although Khon Konchok Gyelpo built Sakya Monastery, it was his son, Sakya Kunga Nyingpo, who really made the Sakya tradition famous. He traveled all the way to the Mongolian court in China, and because of this, his successor became the spiritual tutor of Kublai Khan. The Sakya school had great political influence in the 13th and 14th centuries. Sakya teachers converted the Mongol leaders Godan Khan and Kublai Khan to Buddhism.
The abbots in the Sakya Monastery were devoted to the transmission of a cycle of Vajrayana central teaching and practice called Lamdre, or "path with its fruit ", the systemization of Tantric teachings, and Buddhist logic. Nowadays, Sakya Monastery is also the smallest school of Tibetan Buddhism.
Lconic red, black and white color of Sakya Monastery.
Main Monasteries of Sakya School
Sakya Monastery (Shigatse): Credited as the “treasure house” of Tibetan Buddhism, Sakya Monastery houses extensive Buddhist treasure, such as a white conch shell, a gift from Kublai Khan, and Sakya’s famous library contains around 24,000 texts comprising 8848 reams of Buddhist scripture, many written in gold, etc. You can make a detour to Sakya Monastery after you visit EBC in Shigatse. Highly recommended!
Gelug School (Yellow Hat): the Newest, Largest & Most Influential Tibet Buddhist Sect Founded in Lhasa
With the largest number of disciples and monasteries across Tibet, the Gelug School is currently the most influential and dominating school of Tibetan Buddhism in Tibet. And there are good reasons, both historically and culturally.
By the late 14th century, the various schools of Tibetan Buddhism, like Nyingma, Sakya, and Kagyu, were experiencing a moral decline due to the lack of monastic discipline and order. Monks sought earthly pleasures, chased wealth and power, and abused women, etc. which led to widespread social discontent and a call for a new school of Tibetan Buddhism to replace the old and decadent sects.
It was at this particular time that Tsongkhapa (1357–1419) advocated “religious reform” (1400 to 1409) that aimed to restore the purity of monastic discipline, i.e. “Vinaya” and emphasize strict adherence to Buddhist teachings. The reform was warmly received by the feudal ruling class, religious community, and ordinary people.
In 1409, the Tibetan master Tsongkhapa built the Ganden Monastery around 50km northeast of Lhasa City, which marks the founding of the Gelug School of Tibetan Buddhism. When the Dalai Lama came to be increasingly identified with the Gelug order, Gelugpa became the most accepted, and influential school of Tibetan Buddhism throughout Tibet.
Following Ganden Monastery, Drepung and Sera Monasteries were built respectively in 1416 and 1419 in Lhasa by the disciples of Tsongkhapa, which is nowadays known as the “Great Three Gelug Monasteries” in Lhasa. In the Gelug school, monks followed a well-organized study program that focused on memorizing important texts and engaging in formal debates to deepen their understanding.
The photogenic Ganden Monastery sprawling on Wangbur Mountain.
Main Monasteries of Gelug School
Ganden Monastery (Lhasa): It’s where Tibetan Tsongkhapa founded Gelug School and where he passed away. You can visit the golden stupa of the master Tsongkhapa, capture the photogenic Ganden monastery, and enjoy 1hr scenic Ganden kora overlooking Lhasa Valley.
Drepung Monastery (Lhasa): Founded by the disciple of Tsongkhapa, Drepung is the largest Gelugpa monastery in Tibet. It used to have 2000 monks in this huge Buddhist academy. This monastery is known for the gigantic Buddha Thankga unfolding during the Shoton Festival. Discover all the Tibetan festival tours.
Sera Monastery (Lhasa): Sera Monstery nowadays is now best known for watching the “Monk Debate” at the debate courtyard and you can see the display of exquisite sand mandalas, etc.
Tashilhunpo Monastery (Shigatse): Tashilunpo Monastery is the traditional seat of Panchen Lama. You can admire the world’s highest statue of the future Buddha (26m) worship the gold tomb of Panchen Lama and meditate with lamas in the assembly hall, etc.
For Travelers, the Best Way to Explore Tibetan Buddhist Schools Is with Our Local Experts
Visiting Tibet without knowledge of Tibetan Buddhism is like sailing without a compass. For most overseas travelers, the best way to delve into the school of Tibetan Buddhism is by traveling with a seasoned local Tibetan expert. As the largest local Tibet tour travel agency since 1984, we offer you both budget-friendly Tibet small groups and fully customizable private Tibet tours with 20 year+ local experts to dive deep into Tibetan Buddhism.
Traveling with our local experts who are attentive, humorous, and highly knowledgeable on Tibetan Buddhism and history, you will be ushered into the rich Tibetan culture and history through their lifelike explanation of the stories behind through the Buddhist murals, statues, architecture of Tibetan monasteries, etc. Apart from normal Tibet monastery tours, you can go for mediation tours, the Mt.Kailash pilgrimage, and beyond based on your preferences.
Additionally, we can help process Tibet Travel Permit for free, a crucial document for entering Tibet for foreign nationals, and deal with other travel documents and hassles. So, you can immerse yourself in rich Tibetan Buddhism and alpine adventures.
Conclusion
Hopefully, you will find this article helpful in understanding the history and Tibetan Buddhist leaders and teachers of four schools of Tibetan Buddhis. However, since Tibetan Buddhism has a rich history, it may only scratch the surface. If you want to learn more by traveling in Tibet, please feel free to email us for free and expert travel solutions. Looking forward to traveling with you in Tibet, Tashi Delek!
Tashi Namgyal is a devout Buddhist and an extraordinary local Tibetan guide who exemplifies the essence of excellence. With 20+ years of guide experience, Tashi excels at channeling his deep knowledge of Tibetan culture to guests through his unique sense of humor.
When off work, Tashi loves reading books on Tibetan Buddhism and practicing Buddhism himself like meditation, which makes him a perfect choice for the Tibet meditation tour.
Apart from that, Tashi was born with a knack for connecting with young people. Whether you are on his cycling tour, Buddhist meditation tour, or Mt.Kailash pilgrimage, you will be taken great care of and have a delightful experience.
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