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The air is thin at 5,200 meters altitude and my lungs are straining to pull in enough oxygen. My head is achy. There’s not a scrap of shade from the unrelenting sun. But the sight before me makes me instantly forget the discomfort.
The world’s tallest and most fabled mountain, Mt. Everest, awash in the golden glow of late afternoon. I sit on a rock, hoping the clouds will shift for just a second to afford a glimpse of the summit before an approaching patch of nimbus brings a squall. Kunga, my guide, says we’re lucky. It’s a good view.
We’re at Everest Base Camp on the Tibetan side of the mountain called Qomolunga (Holy Mother Goddess) in Tibetan. The camp is nestled in a barren valley cradled by the jagged peaks of the breathtaking Himalayas and guarded by a small monastery and a herd of yaks.
Join our 8 Days Kathmandu to Lhasa to admire the Mount Everest from both sides.
A Journey Long Desired: Overland from Kathmandu to Lhasa
Everest Base Camp tour was a stop on a trip that I’d wanted to do for years - going overland from Kathmandu, Nepal, to Lhasa, Tibet, passing through some of the world’s most remote, and highest, terrain.
It appealed to my sense of adventure and a way to see two places, but every year I found some place easier to go. Then this year, I made a decision. I was going to go for it. I would do the Tibet tour.
After research on the Internet, I found Tibet Vista. Reviews were great. The prices were reasonable. The trips were clearly set out on the website, along with provisos about the altitude and fitness level required.
Queries were promptly answered. I felt a bit nervous, but I signed up for the eight-day tour from Kathmandu to Lhasa, and I’m so glad I did. It was awe-inspiring and indeed an adventure.
Our group of nine were picked up at our hotels in Kathmandu and ferried in a convoy of three Jeeps to the Chinese border. This part of the drive was an adventure in of itself.
Tibetan monks in red robes in Tashilunpo monastery.
Navigating Nepal’s Rough Roads and Crossing into Tibet
As we headed deeper into the Nepalese countryside, the roads grew rougher with precarious hairpin curves winding around mountains and jolting dirt tracks.
At one point we had to wait for a backhoe to remove a mudslide from the road. The landscape was lush and scenic with waterfalls gushing with pristine snow melt from the surrounding mountains.
After an overnight stay on the banks of a churning river, we crossed the border into China where we met our Tibetan tour guide Kunga. We headed up a steep road to reach the stark, dry Tibetan highland plateau. As we drove along smooth asphalted roads, we were often the only vehicle for miles.
Despite the remoteness, 5G internet was readily available everywhere. Kunga made sure we had plenty of water. Staying well hydrated was key to coping with the high altitude and dry air throughout the trip.
The windy road at Nepal side.
Acclimatizing at Gyirong and Reaching Everest Base Camp
Our first stop was Gyirong, a small town where wind is a constant presence, at about 2,700 metres high. We overnighted here to help acclimatize to the altitude. After a traditional breakfast, we headed on to Everest Base Camp.
I had prepared for chilly temperatures, but it turned out I barely needed the hat, gloves and coat I’d brought. It was exceptionally warm for early October. Of course, the one thing I really needed I hadn’t brought - tablets for the altitude sickness in Tibet!
Visitors take an eco-bus shuttle up to base camp and then trek past grazing yaks to the lookout point that’s the closest one can get to the legendary mountain if you’re not climbing. After a visit to the Rongbuk monastery’s colorful kitchen for yak butter tea and a snack at a camp restaurant, we headed to our lodging in nearby Tingri.
I was pleased to get out of the extreme altitude, but Tingri is still high at 3,700 meters. Our comfortable hotel rooms, as with others along the route, were equipped with oxygen and a humidifier, as well as plentiful breakfasts.
Gawula mountain pass, one of the best viewpoints to admire the Mount Everest.
Exploring Shigatse and Scenic Stops on the Way to Lhasa
Our next stop was Shigatse, Tibet’s second city. Here we visited the fantastic Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, which dates to 1447. As he did along the route, Kunga provided us with detailed explanations of Tibetan Buddhism, and the history and significance of what we were seeing.
The sprawling monastery has terrific stupas, statuary and brightly painted walls. We had the added bonus of glimpsing the Panchen Lama, who happened to be making a rare visit to his ancestral seat from his usual residence in Beijing. The Panchen Lama is the second highest-ranking lama next to the Dalai Lama. In the evening, we attended a dinner show of traditional Tibetan song and dance.
En route to our final stop, Lhasa, we made several scenic stops at lookouts that were decorated with prayer flags that fluttered in the gusty winds and added color to the dry, brown landscape, including the impressive Karuola Glacier and the beautiful turquoise Yamdrok Lake, a popular tourist stop.
Near the lake we had lunch at the home of a Tibetan family who served plenty of delicious foods. Although yak butter tea is an acquired taste, I have to say yak meat is very tasty and the vegetable dishes excellent.
Tashilunpo Monastery, the largest monastery in Shigatse.
Decorated yaks along the shore of Yamdrok lake.
Discovering the Essence of Lhasa, The Spiritual Center of Tibet
It was on to Lhasa, a modern vibrant city dominated by the spectacular Potala Palace, the traditional winter home of the Dalai Lama that has some 1,000 rooms. During our Lhasa tour, we visited the Potala Palace on our second day in the city. Be prepared to climb 462 steps, some up ladders, to the Dalai Lama’s apartments.
We also visited Sera Monastery, which is popular with tourists who come to see the afternoon monastic debates. Dozens of monks gather in a courtyard to discuss and argue philosophical questions. The entertainment factor lies in the unusual hand-clapping and motions the lead debater takes, almost like a dance.
Jokhang Temple, the oldest and holiest of Tibet’s temples dating to the 7th century, is another must-see. Pilgrims kneel, lie down on flat on the floor then get up and do it again.
Outside, others walk around the temple clockwise chanting mantras for good karma in the kora ritual. As throughout the trip, I was struck by the deep devotion of the Tibetan people to the Buddhist faith. People bring offerings of yak butter, money, and sweets to earn karma and pray.
Outside Jokhang, we stepped into the Old Town’s Barkhor Street, bustling with shops selling traditional handcrafts and other souvenirs. I bought a pair of embroidered felt Tibetan shoes and a small mandala painting that now sits in a frame on my mantelpiece.
Although English is not widely spoken, bargaining was easy. The shopkeeper and I typed numbers on our phone calculators and finalized the deal with a nod and a smile.
Local Tibetan sheep herdsman.
Reflecting on a Remarkable Journey with Tibet Vista
I had come to the end of a remarkable, soul-expanding trip to a remote, culturally rich region of the world that few people get to travel to. As I sat in the airport waiting for my flight, I felt lucky and privileged to have had this experience and to have chosen the right tour operator with Tibet Vista.
Another trip is definitely in store. I was so glad I told myself, “Just do it!”
Journey from Kathmandu to Lhasa via EBC to uncover the essence of Tibet.
"A Soul-Expanding Journey Through Tibet: My Unforgettable Experience with Tibet Vista "