I was a keen rock climber and interested in mountains from the age of around 12. I read about the great mountains of the Himalayas and so learned about Tibet and was awestruck by the magnificence of the Potala Palace, and how the former Dalai Lama was chosen. I decided I had to visit Tibet. Seventy years later, I have.
Five years ago, I was diagnosed with liver and bone cancer and given perhaps eighteen months to live, so I decided now would be a good time. My wife chose not to come, but my younger son, Owen, 44, left his wife and two girls to come with me. He was wonderful, both in helping me and delighting the Tibetan girls, being 2 metres tall and blonde.
My son and I took photos with the majestic Potala Palace in Lhasa. Explore Lhasa and Shigatse, the cultural heartland of Tibet, and experience rich Buddhist traditions.
From Chengdu to Lhasa: An Unforgettable Ride on the World’s Highest Railway
We flew to Chengdu from Australia, took the train (Z322) to Xining, and changed to the scenic Z8981 train from Xining to Lhasa, the world’s highest railway.
We were delighted to find that getting to Tibet was an adventure in itself. We jumped out at Tanggu La, the highest station in the world at 5,062 metres, with about half the oxygen levels that we are used to, and waited to see if altitude sickness would get us. It didn’t.
We looked hopefully for the Budongquan Bridge, a famous high-altitude bridge along the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, but none of the train crew knew where it was or didn’t understand what we wanted, and for the Yangtze, Mekong, and Sulween headwaters. Again, we didn’t see them.
Enjoy a comfortable soft sleeper berth on the scenic Tibet train journey.
A warm Tibetan welcome from our local guide at Lhasa Railway Station.My First Glimpse of Lhasa: Rooftop Views of the Potala Palace and Tasty Yak Noodles
Lhasa. So exciting. We were here. We spotted the Potala in the distance as we were driven to our hotel in Lhasa, the Shambhala Palace, which we had asked Tibet Vista to book for us.
We found that it was proud of its Tibetan origins and decoration, and also its wonderful view of the Potala Palace from its rooftop bar and garden.
We spent most of the first day up there (even though the bar was closed), admiring, acclimatising, and reading bits out of guidebooks on Lhasa.
We spent the second day of our Tibet trip not doing very much, as advised by the Tibet Vista people, particularly in view of my age. We did eat yak noodle soup in the evening, despite the cheerful waitresses who dissolved in giggles, and vanished behind the service hatch at the sight of my son.
Captured the majestic Potala Palace rising proudly above the Lhasa sky.
Our serene home in Lhasa: the Shambhala Palace with its distinctly Tibetan décor.
Savoring every bite of yak noodle soup at a cozy Lhasa eatery. Explore Lhasa and Shigatse, the cultural heartland of Tibet, and experience rich Buddhist traditions.
Waiting Below the Potala Palace: A Memorable Encounter with Local Tibetan Life
The next day, we were collected by Tibet Vista to visit the Potala Palace. We arrived at the viewing area and admired the pilgrims. Owen and the tour group decided that I shouldn’t be allowed up to visit the Palace itself, as it was thought that the steps would be too much for me. I was sitting in a large tea room, provided with tea, and told to meet the rest of the tour in two hours.
Though I didn’t climb the Potala Palace myself, I didn’t feel the slightest regret. At over 80, I understood my limits, and sitting in the large tea room turned out to be a quietly delightful experience. The locals were warm and friendly, offering steaming cups of tea and cheerful conversation.
I watched the pilgrims from the windows, felt the rhythm of local Tibetan life, and soaked in the atmosphere in a way that climbing the Potala Palace itself might never have allowed. It was a gentle, meaningful interlude, so peaceful, comfortable, and thoroughly memorable.
From history to hidden details, our guide made the Potala Palace come alive.A Day of Wonders: Crossing the Central Tibetan Plateau from Lhasa to Shigatse
The fourth day was our trip from Lhasa to Shigatse, which was another highlight of our 6-day Lhasa to Shigatse cultural tour. The bus collected us immediately after breakfast, and we left for perhaps the most beautiful drive in the world.
We admired the Yarlung Tsangpo River, which becomes the Brahmaputra in India. We then drove uphill for a couple of hours, arriving at a lookout over turquoise Yamdrok Lake at over 5,000 metres. Here, the bus driver, relying on his native medical abilities, decided to give me some oxygen from the bus's bottle.
We stopped for lunch at a little village by the holy Yamdrok Lake and had a home-cooked buffet lunch, possibly the best meal of our time in Tibet. Then we drove on to the Karola Glacier, and eventually to Shigatse, where we stayed the night.
Everyone paused to admire and photograph the breathtaking Yamdrok Lake.
We spotted an oxygen chamber for visitors needing a little help with the altitude.
Enjoying a hearty buffet at a local Tibetan restaurant near Yamdrok Lake.Explore Lhasa and Shigatse, the cultural heartland of Tibet, and experience rich Buddhist traditions.
From Sacred Monasteries to Bustling Markets: Discovering the Soul of Shigatse
The fifth day began with a visit to the spiritual heart of Shigatse, Tashilhunpo Monastery, the home of the Panchen Lama, a great scholar in Tibetan Buddhism.
As we wandered through the grand halls, I was struck by the sheer scale and magnificence of the monastery, which stretches across the hillside. Inside, the world’s largest statue of Maitreya Buddha stood serene and towering, while monks in yellow hats and flowing red robes moved gracefully through the temple, chanting and attending to their duties. The atmosphere was peaceful yet alive, and I felt a deep sense of connection to the centuries of devotion embedded in these walls.
After soaking in the monastery’s sacred ambiance, we paused for lunch before heading to the Samzhubze Old Market, a place where the rhythm of daily Tibetan life unfolded before our eyes.
Stalls overflowed with fresh produce, handmade crafts, and local delicacies, while residents bustled about, chatting and laughing. I enjoyed weaving through the narrow lanes, observing the interactions, and even sampling a few local Tibetan snacks like Tibetan yogurt and dried cheese. The market was colorful, lively, and unfiltered, a perfect window into the day-to-day life of the people of Shigatse.
It was another memorable day in Tibet, one that left me with vivid images and lasting impressions.
The monks at Tashilhunpo Monastery were friendly and curious about foreign visitors.When Things Went Wrong, Tibet Vista Made It Right
Early the next morning, we set off to catch the C888 train from Lhasa. I know it was the C888 because I lost my phone sometime this morning. I wrote it off as lost, but our tour guide got to work and found it was left on the train.
We collected it from Lhasa railway station. This was the only contré-temps of our time in Tibet. We dropped out of one day’s activities, changed hotels at a day’s notice, none of which worried Tibet Vista.
Finally, at 82 Years Old, I'd Still Tell You: Go to Tibet
Looking back, highlights of my Tibet tour must be the Potala Palace, the scenic train trip from Xining, the breathtaking drive from Lhasa to Shigatse, the turquoise beauty of Yamdrok Lake, lunch at a charming lakeside village, exploring the historic old town in Lhasa, wandering through Shigatse’s lively streets and its majestic Tashilhunpo Monastery, and the kindness and helpfulness of the Tibetan people. In fact, everything.
My advice: just go. It may be a bit expensive, but even at 82, I can say it was one of the best experiences of my life.
- Learn how to use WeChat. It’s used for everything, particularly paying.
- Learn about Didi. It’s the Chinese Uber, and it’s cheap, very cheap, accurate, and they arrive quickly.
- Learn a few Tibetan good manners. Helpful phrases like “hello”, “goodbye”, “thank you”, and honorifics. I’m Welsh and have always appreciated English speakers who attempt a few words.
- Watch for altitude sickness. I never actually got it, but I saw people who had, and it wasn’t nice. It involves vomiting and flu-like symptoms.
- I made sure I always had cans of oxygen on hand. They sell them everywhere for about 5 Yuan a can. The lids convert into face masks, so you can use them immediately. On top of that, our local Tibetan guide had prepared medical oxygen cylinders on the tour bus and portable canisters for us, ready whenever needed.
A few extras I'd have liked were commentary on the train journey, more Tibet-themed T-shirts, and a better selection of postcards. But these are small things. My advice? Just go. Tibet is an experience you'll never forget.
My younger son and I at the monument celebrating the Qinghai–Tibet Railway.
The awe-inspiring Gyantse Fortress on our journey to Shigatse.
I still vividly remember the taste of Tibetan sweet tea.Explore Lhasa and Shigatse, the cultural heartland of Tibet, and experience rich Buddhist traditions.
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"My 6-Day Lhasa to Shigatse Tour: Fulfilling a Lifelong Dream at 82"