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From Kunming to Tibet Everest Base Camp: Riding the World’s Highest Railway into Tibet

Written by Daniel 0 COMMENTS

I’ve long dreamed of visiting Tibet, and the idea of journeying to Tibet Everest Base Camp by the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, the world’s highest train, always stood out to me. This adventure had been in my plans for years, and when the opportunity finally arrived, Tibet Vista made it all possible. With their help, my dream trip quickly became a reality, and I was on my way to the Tibetan Plateau.

Journey to the north face of Mount Everest on the classic Lhasa to Everest Base Camp tour.

Clear Skies and First Impressions: Leaving Kunming for Xining

I left Kunming early under clear skies, the first proper sunshine in days, and made my way through the airport without a single complication. Landing in Xining at 1 pm felt like stepping into a different country. The air was thin and dry, the hills a muted sandy brown, and the whole city carried a slower, more grounded rhythm.

I walked to the Dongguan Mosque, the city’s most famous landmark, where the broad courtyard hummed with local life. Hui families wandered between stalls selling fruit and snacks, and I followed suit, peaches, some street food, and eventually a dinner of dumplings. Everywhere I went, I attracted polite curiosity: not a single other Westerner in sight.

Prepare My Tibet Travel Permit and Other Essentials for the Train Journey

After sunset, I drifted around the train station district. A tiny print shop unexpectedly open saved me. I finally printed my Tibet travel permit. It felt like the right kind of omen before heading toward the plateau.

The rest of the evening was quiet. I read through my Tibet tour itinerary, skimmed articles on Tibetan Buddhism, and tried to absorb enough to make the trip feel more grounded.

I spent the morning in a central Starbucks, lured in mostly by the promise of working sockets. If you’ve ever wondered: European plugs won’t work here. Emails answered, small tasks handled. I stopped by a supermarket to load up on train snacks. Back at the hotel, I squeezed in a short workout, reorganised my bags, and took a long shower before the overnight journey.

Gobi DesertThe vast expanse of the Gobi Desert as seen from aboard the Tibet train.

Qinghai–Tibet RailwayThe famous Qinghai–Tibet Railway runs almost parallel to the Qinghai–Lhasa Highway.

Enjoy the scenic Tibet train journey to explore Mount Everest on the Roof of the World.

Board the Legendary Qinghai-Tibet Railway for an Epic Journey to Lhasa

At the Xining train station, I grabbed a bowl of saucy noodles for dinner, comforting and familiar, and then boarded the Xining to Tibet train around 9:15 pm. The carriage felt calm, almost expectant, as if everyone understood that the route ahead was not just transport but an experience in itself.

I woke to a landscape of snow and empty plains drifting by beneath a pale sky. It felt like traveling across the edge of the world. Most of the day I spent glued to the window, switching sides to catch every view, frozen lakes, wild grasslands, distant peaks.

I chatted intermittently with an Austrian traveler, entertaining, a bit eccentric, and did my best to avoid the nearby passenger whose sneezing seemed determined to follow us across the plateau. At Tanggula Pass, where the altitude peaks, my instant noodles barely softened: the water couldn’t get hot enough. A small but vivid reminder of how high we were.

By evening, we descended into Lhasa. The sunlight was sharp and golden, casting long shadows through the streets. After a quick hotel transfer and a light dinner, I collapsed into bed.

Tibetan landscapesSeated by the train window, I watched the imposing Tibetan landscapes glide past.

Tibetan PlateauThe vast, uninhabited Tibetan Plateau dotted with grazing yaks.

Meet the Group and Start Exploring Tibetan Monastic Life in Lhasa

A mild headache greeted me in the morning, but breakfast helped. At 9 am, I met the group: mostly Singaporean travelers, a university student from Las Vegas, and a soft-spoken South Korean girl devoted to pandas. Phurbu, our guide, seems friendly and approachable.

We visited Drepung Monastery, once home to thousands of monks. The chanting halls were the highlight, rows of monks sitting cross-legged, sipping Tibetan butter tea between prayers, the room warm with the low drone of voices. After a simple lunch, we continued to Sera Monastery to watch the famous Tibetan monk debates. They were far more animated than I expected: loud claps, dramatic gestures, bursts of argument. Philosophy with performance flair.

Dinner was a huge buffet at another hotel, good enough, but the day’s Tibet monastery tour lingered far more in my mind.

Drepung MonasteryExplore the grand main assembly hall of the Drepung Monastery in Lhasa.

burn juniper branchesLocal Tibetans burn juniper branches as an offering to the gods.

Journey to the north face of Mount Everest on the classic Lhasa to Everest Base Camp tour.

Explore Tibet’s Landmark Attractions and Feel the Weight of History

The morning disappeared into laundry, surprisingly expensive, but unavoidable. Late morning, we officially started to enjoy our Lhasa tour and climbed the stone steps to the Potala Palace, its sheer size overwhelming even before entering. Inside, the endless sequence of chapels, murals, and relic rooms felt both impressive and exhausting. The crowds made movement slow, but visiting the Dalai Lama’s former quarters gave the place an unexpected intimacy.

We had lunch near Barkhor Street, where I tried yak curry and butter tea. Afterwards, we visited Jokhang Temple, the heart of Tibetan Buddhism. The building was beautiful, but inside it was hot, dark, and crowded to the point of suffocation. By evening, I felt a scratch in my throat and went out to find lip balm and throat lozenges. I packed early, hoping for a revitalizing sleep.

Potala PalaceThe majestic Potala Palace stands before me like a fortress.

Tibetan hamburgerA Tibetan waitress hands a Tibetan hamburger to a monk on the rooftop.

Heading to Shigatse: Routes, Permits, and Time to Recover

The night was rough, awake from midnight to 4 am, and rain greeted us at breakfast. Our guide suggested swapping the next two days of the itinerary, and everyone agreed. We drove straight to Shigatse, the second-largest city in Tibet.

After registering at the police station, we had a generous family-style lunch. Only today did I learn that two group members were musicians in the Singapore Symphony Orchestra; suddenly, their measured, elegant manners made perfect sense.

At the hotel, the rest of the group headed to the Tashilhunpo Monastery, but I opted to stay behind. I had a long nap, woke with a slight fever, and stepped out only briefly to find dinner and buy a Tibetan hat from a small shop.

Karola GlaciersTaking a break to admire the Karola Glaciers at the roadside.

Journey across the Central Tibetan Plateau toward Mount Everest

A solid night’s sleep made everything easier. We drove first through dry, deserted plains, then stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch, accompanied by a couple of scruffy dogs wandering between tables.

Hours later, Mount Everest appeared far in the distance, with clear skies, no clouds. After a routine border check, we climbed toward a pass at over 5200 meters. The panorama was extraordinary: a full sweep of the Himalayan ridge, including several 8000m peaks. Phurpu’s confident it’s the best panorama in the world, and honestly, I see no exaggeration here.

Mount EverestTaking a selfie with Mount Everest and other towering Himalayan peaks at Gawula Pass.

Journey to the north face of Mount Everest on the classic Lhasa to Everest Base Camp tour.

Made it to Everest Base Camp and My Travel Bucket List Fulfilled

We switched to electric buses for the final leg to Everest Base Camp. The Everest accommodation, container-style rooms, was surprisingly warm and comfortable, far better than I expected. Bathroom facilities are a short walk away. Before sunset, we ventured into the Rongbuk Monastery, watched yaks lie nearby, and stood facing Everest as the light shifted.

As I had decided not to take any supplementary oxygen, I experienced some typical high-altitude reactions overnight, which eased after rest. The next morning, I woke up and stepped out for one last view of Mount Everest. The morning light softened everything, making the summit look almost unreal.

Before leaving, we stopped at a newly opened café run from a converted container. The owner had climbed the Seven Summits and poured tea for us with matter-of-fact pride. It felt like a fitting last moment at Everest Base Camp.

Mount EverestMarvel at the unobstructed north face of Mount Everest at the Tibet EBC.

The Journey Back: Scenic Roads and a Cultural Evening

The rest of the day was a long drive back to Shigatse. Everyone was drained. Dinner was at a tourist restaurant featuring performances for the guests.

After a good night’s sleep, I tried making Tsampa for breakfast, barley flour mixed with butter and butter tea until it forms a dense, doughy ball. Surprisingly tasty and incredibly filling.

We returned to Lhasa via a different, more scenic route. First came barley fields, then a narrow gorge at the first pass, then a glacier at the second. The landscape shifted constantly. By early afternoon, we reached Yamdrok Lake, a brilliant turquoise lake sacred to Tibetans. You’re not allowed to touch the water, swim, or fish; its purity is part of its cultural meaning.

We had lunch at a family home near the lake. Afterwards, we stopped at a newly-built viewpoint clearly designed for social media photos, though the view itself needed no help. Three more hours of driving brought us back to Lhasa. We said our goodbyes to Phurbu, our guide.

Yamdrok LakePhotographing Tibetan yaks beside the turquoise Yamdrok Lake.

Journey to the north face of Mount Everest on the classic Lhasa to Everest Base Camp tour.

My Quiet Farewell: My Last Hours in Lhasa Before Heading Home

My final morning was slow and practical. I packed my luggage carefully, then walked to a supermarket to buy snacks as souvenirs. With check-out at 2 pm and my flight only at 7:40, the afternoon stretched quietly, time to sit, breathe, and take in a last few moments of the lofty Tibetan Plateau before heading back home.

tour vehicleEnjoying a spacious and comfortable tour vehicle throughout my Tibet tour.

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