WEST TERAI

The Mahendra Hwy runs from Butwal to meet the Indian border at Mahendranagar,passing through one of the least developed parts of Nepal.Few travellers pass through the area and fewer still stop to investigate its little-visited national parks.Unfortunately,western Nepal is aslo the heartland of the maoist insurgency.Bridges,telephone exchanges,government offices and army bases have been attacked on numberous occasions and it`s important to check the security situation before planning any trips through this area.

ROYAL SUKLA PHANTA WILDLIFE RESERVE

Tucked against the Indian border,Royal Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve covers 305sq km of the Bahini River.The terrain is similar to Royal Bardia National Park and the reserve has tigers,rhinos,crocodiles,wild elephants and Nepal`s largest population of barasingha,currently numbering around 2000,as well as large numbers of migratory birds.

Visiting Sukla Phanta was always difficult,and since the closure of the only park lodge,camping is the only way to stay overnight.The few visitors who make it to the park generally come on day trips from Mahendranagar with a hired car and driver.Elephant rides can be booked at the park headquaters,but call ahead to make sure somebody will be around.

The best time to visit is November to January;the main vehicle track within the park is impassable from June to September beacuse of monsoon flooding.

MAHENDRANAGAR

As the most westerly border crossing between Nepal and India,Mahendranagar offers an interesting back route to Delhi and the hill towns of Uttaranchal.This is one of the more relaxing border crossings and the town itself is surprisingly pleasant.Unfortuately for travellers,the maoist insurgency affects travel throughout this region.Most people head straight for the border,but the little-visited Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve is a short drive east of airport.

Dangers&Anoyances

Mahendranagar is the gateway to western Nepal,but travel in the region is fraught with difficulties.Maoist rebels have staged numerous attacks on bridges and civic insituations in recent years and vehicles on army searches,adding hours to journey times.Everything returns to Normal during ceasefires,so check the security situation before you visit.

Oritentation&Information

Mahendranagar is just south of the Mahendra Hwy,about 5km east of the Indian border.From the Nepali border post at Gaddachauki,it`s about 1km to the Indian border post at Banbassa-a rickshaw is probably the way to go.

Getting There&Away

The airport is 3.5km from the center but flights to Nepalganj and Kathmandu have been suspended indefinitely.

The bus station is about 1km from the center on the Mahendra Hwy.Long-haul buses leave for Kathmandu at 5am,8:30am and 2:15pm.There is also a single Pokhara service at 10:30am.Local buses run regularly to Nepalganj,passing the turn off to Royal Bardia National Park.

Getting Around

Buses,tempos and tongas run regularly between the bus station and the border for Rs 10 to Rs15.Taxi can be hired for trips to Royal SUkla Phanta Wildlife Reserve for Rs4000 per day.